Impressions of the week: It has felt like a pivotal point for many upcoming brands like Coperni. Must-have item(s): A Loewe anthurium dress, a Sacai trench, a Saint Laurent jersey dress and Miu Miu thong sandals.īudgets up or down: Budgets are up, as business is strong and we will have two new doors on Madison Avenue and in Nashville, Tennessee, opening for this season. Sheer fabrics, cutouts and feathers continue. Top trends: Pleating, fringe, deconstructed tailoring, strong shirting, jersey, fashion-y denim, Y2K, low-rise pants. I always love a presentation and Johanna Ortiz’s Latin spirit in Paris was refreshing, joyful and fun. Mostly I was proud of these amazing women who were both able to fulfill lifetime dreams this season. Zimmermann’s location amongst a garden built at the Petit Palais full of noises of chirping birds was magical. Victoria Beckham’s show at an old military hospital with “Madame Butterfly” music paired with techno was beautiful. Remarkable to watch and has us questioning where does fashion go from here?”Ĭoperni RTW Spring 2023 Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD Beth Buccini, founder and owner, Kirna Zabêteįavorite collection(s): Sacai, Saint Laurent, Victoria Beckham, Dries Van Noten, Loewe and Valentino.īest show format: It was super exciting to have both Victoria Beckham and Zimmermann show for the first time in Paris. “Truly the biggest impression that went viral almost instantaneously - if not live - was Bella Hadid having a dress be spray painted onto her body. “From star-studded catwalks to front rows more so than usual, Paris was filled with celebrity-driven shows,” said Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners of Jimmy’s NYC. While influencers remain a force, the power of classic celebrity saw a resurgence this season, with the presence of packed front rows and big star turns such as Cher closing the Balmain show. “Overall, the impression was that designers were more concerned with the communication and digital aspect of their shows, while creativity was in some cases sidelined,” said Frederica Montelli, head of fashion at Italy’s Rinascente. Nearly every buyer mentioned it as their best show format of the week, but it led to a bit of soul-searching for some who questioned how the quest for viral moments impacts the industry. But by far Coperni caused the greatest stir with Bella Hadid’s spray-on dress, an instantly iconic moment that generated $26.3 million in media impact value. One of the most mentioned collections of the week was Demna’s Balenciaga for everything from its unique invitation to its muddy pit set. Ludovic de Saint Sernin stood out among emerging talent with his latest gender-fluid collection, and Kevin Germanier also caught buyers’ attention despite Ye, the rapper formerly known as Kanye West, staging a surprise show in the same time slot that hogged headlines with negative buzz. Other standouts were Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent collection, with its column dresses and oversize coats, while Chitose Abe’s Sacai was well-received for its pleating detail and bombers. His supersized sweatshirts, shrunken bombers and balloon shoes were cited as must-haves.ĭries Van Noten also registered for its use of sculptural volume, colorblocking and unexpected floral mixes. “They are always the perfect blend of conceptual meets commerce,” said Libby Page, market director at Net-a-porter. Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe collection was singled out for his creative use of a floral theme and playful twist on proportion - all while still being wearable. The pendulum swung from heavy leather to sheer fabrics, with many looks revealing acres of skin. An all-black palette for summer stood out, with pops of brights and neon as colors still on trend, while embellishment for day, including the resurgence of sequins, added an air of celebratory fun.
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